Hidden Gems of Puglia: Discover Italy’s Most Enchanting Region
Puglia is a delightful region of Southern Italy making up the heel of the ‘boot’ of the mainland. This charming coastal area is a perfect seaside holiday destination featuring craggy cliffs, stunning beaches and unique seafood-based cuisine. Visiting Puglia with kids may seem daunting, but it is very doable with proper planning – even town hopping through the region can be done. In fact, the joys of exploring the Puglia region definitely lie in visiting the unique village-like towns that make up the area. In my opinion, Puglia punches well above its weight when it comes to the most beautiful destinations in Italy.
Why visit Puglia with kids
Puglia is a rather unique destination in Italy and though it has grown in popularity in recent years, it is still far less busy than other coastal areas like the Amalfi Coast or Cinque Terre or major cities like Rome.
The region is famous for its beautiful olive groves and the region produces 60% of the country’s olive oil. Puglia also makes more wine than anywhere else in Italy and happens to be the birthplace of orecchiette pasta and burrata cheese among other culinary delights.
But Puglia has way more to offer than just tantalising food and wine. There are hundreds of beautiful small towns that are breathtakingly picturesque such as Monopoli, Ostuni or Locorotondo. The region also is home to the unique cone shaped Trulli houses with the village of Alberobello being the best collection of these unusual buildings.
And so, why visit Puglia with kids? Well, there is something really magical about exploring villages that feel like they’re straight out of a Disney movie while your kids’ eyes widen and jaws drop. There’s plenty of swimming and beach activities for water-loving kiddos and we found our almost-one-year-old also loved the food, particularly when able to wash down dinner with a gelato afterwards.
Italy in general is also super kid-friendly. The Italians absolutely love children and they’re so accommodating and sweet when they see you travelling with kiddos in tow.
Where to stay in Puglia with kids
Because one of the best things to do in Puglia is town hop throughout the region, I definitely suggest finding an accessible home base located day-trip distance from other towns that you would like to visit. Unless you have multiple weeks here, you will not be able to see everything – so choose wisely. It is a good idea to select a cluster of towns in the part of Puglia you are most interested in and find a base in one of those towns. This will save you from having to transport luggage from town to town and stay in multiple hotels.
We chose to focus on the Bari end of Puglia and stayed in the stunning whitewashed town of Monopoli. This was a perfect choice for a home base with ample restaurants, beautiful coastal vistas and dreamy white laneways to wander through. I thoroughly recommend Palazzo Mulini as a great boutique accommodation option in the heart of the town. Their rooms were spacious with family-sized options and they also provided a great standard of safe and comfortable bedding for our baby.
Alternatively, if you are headed further south, then basing yourself in Lecce may be a great idea where you are within easy enough access of places like Gallipoli and Otranto. You can even (at a stretch) make it out to the very tip of Puglia, Santa Maria de Leuce on a day trip from Lecce. The Palazzo Lecce is a lovely boutique hotel in the city which also has a pool to relax by.
How to get around in Puglia with kids
Trains and Buses
Towns like Monopoli, Lecce, Bari and Polignano a Mare are all located on the main train line so day trips between each of these beautiful destinations are easy. However some of the inland villages like Alberobello, Ostuni, Martina Franca and Locorotondo are harder to get to using public transport – particularly if you are exploring Puglia with kids in tow.
Hire a driver
Because we were not game to lug our 11 month old daughter and her pram around for hours waiting for buses (that can be notoriously unreliable in the region), we hired a private driver for a day to visit a couple of the harder to get to towns such as Alberobello. We were able to secure a car that had a baby car seat, so our daughter could travel safely – we wouldn’t have used this option otherwise. A private driver is a great option to see Puglia with kids, particularly if you are not game to hire a car and drive yourself.
Rent a car
If you are a confident driver, then this would be the easiest way to explore the Puglia region at your leisure. Rental cars can be picked up in many of the larger towns and also from both Bari and Brindisi airports, so this is a very convenient option for those who don’t mind driving on Italian roads. The roads in Puglia are nowhere near as crazy as those in major cities like Rome and most car rental places will allow you to book a child’s car seat (or you can travel with one) if you are visiting Puglia with kids.
What to pack to visit Puglia with kids
We usually try to pack light when it comes to travel, but there are definitely some essentials when travelling with a toddler or a baby that will come in handy.
Travel Pram: This is an essential for anyone wanting to explore the region’s towns on foot if you’ve got a young one who is not yet walking or who gets tired of walking after a little while. A lightweight travel stroller for your little one can be used this for naps on the go as well. We love our Baby Jogger City Tour 2 travel pram because it has a full recline and can fit in the overhead locker of an aeroplane.
Baby Carrier (optional): If your kiddo is still small enough, then a baby carrier is a great way to explore, particularly in areas that are not stroller friendly. We used the Ergobaby Omni 360 for travel when our daughter was smaller. Our busy toddler sadly has outgrown this stage so we didn’t bother to bring one, however there are fancy backpack-style toddler carriers that you can buy to keep baby wearing well into the toddler years.
Stroller Clips and a lightweight muslin: When naps on the go aren’t easy, I recommend stroller clips and a muslin to put over the stroller to try and limit stimulation for your little one. We usually wait until our daughter starts to nod off and then recline her seat gently, affixing the muslin over her pram with the clips. We like using a muslin because it’s very light and breathable but also protects her from the sun.
Portacot (optional): If you’re anxious about your kiddo’s sleeping arrangements then you might want to consider bringing a portacot with you. We didn’t bring our beloved Bugaboo Stardust portacot on this trip because we called hotels in advance to ensure we had the right sleeping equipment for our kiddo, but if you prefer to save yourself the anxiety then this is a great option. Remember, though, if you’re bringing your own cot you will want something very transportable. We found that most hotels had great quality pack and play style cots and so avoided bringing the extra luggage.
Nappies: My recommendation is to take enough nappies to last at least a few days with you. We had issues finding nappies for sale in Monopoli as many of the grocery stores were small and only had produce. I imagine in some of the bigger cities there are some of the larger chain supermarkets where you can purchase nappies, but take a buffer just in case!
The best time to visit Puglia
Puglia is delightful year round, though I’d strongly recommend avoiding the crowds that flock in the European summer (and the prices that come with peak season). The shoulder seasons of Spring or Autumn are really perfect for a visit to the region as they’re still usually quite warm, often swimmable temperatures and the crowds are fewer. I visited in late September which was still warm and beach-worthy weather.
Must visit towns and villages in Puglia
Puglia is full of charming towns in breathtaking settings, so definitely plan a few day trips to visit some of the regions most lovely villages and cities when you travel to Puglia with kids.
Bari
The gritty charm of Bari is hard to beat. This city is home to one of the region’s two airports and a large train station where you can catch the train to and from Rome. The local trains from Bari also run to locations such as Monopoli, Polignano a Mare and Lecce. Bari Vecchia (old town) is the place to be, particularly as the lovely laneways start to light up at night, making the whole place feel like a fairytale.
A visit to see local ladies handmaking the region’s famous orecchiette pasta is also a must. You’ll find these lovely old ladies around Arco Alto and Arco Basso in the old town, painstakingly creating delicious fresh pasta each day. Definitely one of the highlights of travelling in Puglia with kids is to see the sight of the local nonnas making ‘little ears’, the nickname for orecchiette.
Another key spot to visit in Bari is the beautiful harbour where a waterfront walk has to be in order. Finally, a visit to some of the city’s famous spiritual sights such as the Basilica San Nicola and the Cattedrale di San Sabino is a great way to finish up a day trip to this busy Puglian city.
Monopoli
Monopoli is one of my favourite towns in Puglia, especially as it is very kid-friendly. This charming whitewashed town featured paved laneways strung with fairy lights, a mix of rocky and sandy beaches and food to make you drool. The streets are very pram friendly and we had a blast meandering along the waterfront with our baby snoozing in the stroller each day at naptime. We were fascinated by the bizarre Chiesa di Santa Maria del Suffragio otherwise known as the Church of Purgatory which is engraved rather morbidly and features mummified remains from former church members – even our toddler was amazed, rather than scared!
Monopoli has a stunning harbour made particularly beautiful as the sun starts to set and golden hour kicks in. The waterfront walk along the lungomare is a must do, perhaps stopping for an aperetivo along the way. Monopoli is also home to some of the region’s best beaches that also happen to be quite kid-friendly and calm on most days.
Polignano a Mare
Poglinano a Mare is arguably the Puglia region’s most famous town, featuring one of the world’s most spectacular beaches nestled in between craggy cliffs. Polignano a Mare is also well known for its wonderful gelato, a fact that kids will be very keen to test out. We loved the flavours at Bella Blu and nearby Caruso is also famous for serving up delicious ice cream.
The beautiful old town of Polignano a Mare is a delight to walk through with some lovely piazzas and churches, and though it does get busy we never felt claustrophobic and were able to walk around with our daughter in her pram easily.
One of the best things to do in Polignano a Mare is to walk through the old town until you get to the panoramic terrace where you can get an amazing view of the famous beach and sparkling Adriatic Sea. The old town also houses many unique and pretty shops that sell homemade and artisan goods. I bought myself a beautiful bottle of local olive oil that hands down is the best olive oil I’ve ever tasted!
Gallipoli
Not to be confused with the Turkish peninsula of the same name, Puglia’s Gallipoli is a sun-drenched island town in the south of the region. Some of the best beaches in Puglia are accessible from Gallipoli and it is a great option for a home base to explore the furthest points of Puglia. Like most towns in Puglia, the city’s best is found in the old town where the beating heart of Gallipoli lies. This particular town is also interesting for its fascinating Gallipoli Castle, originally built in the 13th century.
Seafood lovers will also definitely want to wander through the fish market where locals still shop and buy their food for the day. There are restaurants onsite, too, in case you are keen to try some of the local catch firsthand.
Alberobello
Alberobello is Puglia’s most unique village as it is the home of the fascinating conical trulli houses. Whilst a little tricky to get to (we used a private driver), this utterly captivating town is well worth the visit. Most of the area is stroller friendly, though it is a little hilly in parts. Alberobello is UNESCO World Heritage listed thanks to the unusual architecture of the village houses and it honestly is so cute it almost doesn’t feel real!
We were lucky enough to be able to go inside one of the trulli houses to see how they are set up inside and the living conditions are definitely unlike what we are used to today – very small and cramped, but at the same time quaint, simple and sweet. The highlight of a visit to Alberobello is definitely taking a relaxed walk wandering through the town and taking in the scenery. On the day we visited, there was also a large religious festival taking place for the patron saint of the town, so all roads led to the city’s main church, the The Basilica of Saints Cosmas and Damian. There was lots of music in the streets and people celebrating, which our daughter absolutely adored.
Locorotondo
Locorotondo isn’t a massive tourist attraction filled village, but I honestly think it might be the prettiest town in the entire Puglia region. Locorotondo, more than any other Puglia destination, feels like it has come to life straight out of a fairy tale. This is the place when you’re travelling in Puglia with kids that will truly take their breath away. And with a discernable lack of noticeable ‘attractions’, the best thing to do in this town is simply to get lost amongst the picturesque laneways and make the most of not having to do anything in particular.
The laneways of Locorotondo are full of small shops and artisan cafes and just outside the labryinth of white buildings is a lovely terrace featuring stunning views of the countryside. Spot quaint trulli houses dotting the groves of olive trees and vineyards and enjoy the serenity of this picture-perfect town.
Otranto
Otranto is home to one of Puglia’s most famous castles, the Aragonese Castle of Otranto, made famous by an 18th century gothic novel by Horace Walpole. It is a truly imposing yet beautiful feature of the town and is a major tourist drawcard to the area both from an architectural perspective and also a because of the castle’s rather morbid history. There was a significant massacre on the site of the original castle due to an Ottoman invasion back in 1480. There are memorials (and even skulls) of those who perished in the castle and cathedral.
Beyond the castle and cathedral, the Otranto harbour is one of the loveliest in the region and travellers to Puglia with kids will love taking them for a stroll along the waterfront. Otranto is also a great destination for swimming, snorkelling and diving. The kids will love snorkelling in the aqua sea, spotting all kinds of marine life.
Ostuni
Ostuni is Puglia’s famous hillside white town and is a firm favourite of visitors to the Puglia region. Though trickier to get to than some other villages (we used a private driver), the trek out there is definitely worth it if not just to see the all-white town looming on the horizon as you drive towards it.
Ostuni features incredible views of the countryside and the Corso Vittorio Emmanuel II viewpoint offers the most incredible views of the town itself. You’ll truly be able to appreciate just how breathtaking it is from this vantage. The walk up takes around 15 minutes and it is hilly, so would recommend baby-wearing for this walk, rather than using a stroller.
You can also walk the fortified Ostuni city walls which will give you a unique perspective of the city. If you’re done walking and would prefer to relax or let your kiddos have a run around, then make a stop in the town’s lovely piazza instead for a bite to eat.
Lecce
Lecce is the Baroque jewel in Puglia’s crown. This amazing city is a great day trip (or longer stay) for the whole family as there’s plenty to do and see. The most amazing thing to do in the city is to visit the Piazza Sant’Oronzo where you can see the ruins of a Roman amphitheatre that dates all the way back to Hadrian’s reign.
We also found the Castello Carlo V an interesting historical site to explore with a little bit of parkland nearby that our toddler enjoyed having a run around in. The castle dates back to the 16th century and is made with local stone.
There are also many beautiful churches to visit in Lecce, though I admit that I was a little churched-out after 3 weeks travelling in Europe. The most famous four churches are the Duomo, the Basilica di Santa Croce, the Chiesa di Santa Chiara (where the ceiling is made of papier mache) and the Chiesa di San Matteo which is incredibly over the top.
Martina Franca
Martina Franca is home to the region’s famous Martina Franca pork, namely Capocollo, a delicious cold cut of local meat. This town is larger than neighbouring Alberobello or Locorotondo and features lovely Baroque architecture and Puglia’s trademark whitewashed buildings.
The town is full of churches and other grandiose buildings with the Basilica di San Martino the jewel in the old centre’s crown. The Palazzo Ducale is also worth visiting for those wanting to get in touch with Martina Franca’s aristocratic past. Alternatively, explore the streets of the old town and enjoy several of the light-filled piazzas for a bite to eat.
In summary: Puglia with kids
Puglia might feel daunting when considering travelling with kids, but fear not. There are many ways to travel the region at your own pace, enjoying the magic of the beautiful towns without rushing. Many towns are accessible on the train line which is probably the easiest way to get around without hiring a car and even if you only stuck to the train accessible cities, you’d still see a great deal. And honestly, Puglia isn’t a one-visit type destination. It is somewhere you’ll want to return to again and again.
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