French Riviera

A One Week Itinerary for the French Riviera

I’m pretty sure my heart is still in the French Riviera. Time passes and I am still often wistfully dreaming of the aqua-blue Mediterranean Sea and the quaint towns dotted along the coast. I often get asked about how to plan one week in the French Riviera because the region has so many things to see.

The reality is, you simply won’t be able to see everything in one week, so take your time and slow down to truly enjoy the magic of the Côte d’Azur. It is a region that you will find yourself wanting to return to again and again.

What is the best time to visit the French Riviera?

Visiting in the shoulder season of late September – October is perfect as the days are sunny and long, but the hordes of tourists have gone home at the end of the summer leaving the towns with a bit of breathing room.

Where should I stay for a week in the French Riviera?

To avoid having to lug baggage around to multiple accommodations in the various towns, I recommend that you choose a town on the French Riviera to base yourself in for the week and explore the region’s many towns on day trips. 

I chose to call the city of Nice my home for the week, which worked perfectly as it is quite central to all the places I wanted to see. I recommend staying in the old town of Nice or on its outskirts as there is much joy to be found from simply wandering the laneways and shops in this areas. There are also plenty of restaurants to eat at at all times of the day. 

I absolutely loved staying at the The Mercure Marché Aux Fleurs. The location is absolutely second to none, in the heart of the old town and a stone’s throw from the beach. I’ve also stayed on the outskirts of the old town at the Mercure Centre Grimaldi, which had some strange decor but was centrally located just off Place Massena. If you’d like a luxurious stay, then Nice also features one of the world’s most recognisable hotels – the Negresco – which is easily spotted from the Promenade des Anglais. Le Meridien Nice is also a great luxury option.  

Of course, if youd prefer to stay in one of the other towns on the Riviera, such as Antibes, Cannes, Saint Tropez or Menton, there are plenty of options no matter where you choose to base yourself. I just found Nice the most convenient. 

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How to get around on the French Riviera?

Luckily, the French Riviera is actually quite strong on the public transport front. Your one week itinerary in the French Riviera can be managed without having to hire a car, though that is always an option if you choose it.

Trains run frequently through many of the best towns to visit including Nice, Antibes, Cannes, Menton, Grasse and Villefranche-sur-Mer. The trains also stop in the Principality of Monaco and over the border into Italy at Ventimiglia.

Buses are also very reliable on the French Riviera and make some of the other more remote towns accessible, such as Eze Village and Saint-Paul-de-Vence. The bus ride from Nice to Monaco gets a special mention for being incredibly scenic.

The Best Towns on the French Riviera - Emma Jane Explores - Eze Village
The view from Eze Village

Day one on the French Riviera

Explore Nice

Nice is so much more than just ‘nice’. I chose Nice as our base for the trip to avoid having to keep moving from hotel to hotel and it meant Mum and I were able to do lots of day trips along the coast and up into the mountains whilst still having a home base in a bustling, open-late city. There’s so much to love about Nice, but it is hard to go beyond the glittering water of the Mediterranean along the huge stretch of the coastline.

The saying goes “the best things in life are free” and in the case of Nice, it’s absolutely true. Walking along the Promenade des Anglais when the weather is sunny and warm is one of the real joys of visiting this part of the world and it costs absolutely nothing.

The old town of Nice is wonderful, too. Full of twisty, winding alleys where amazing food awaits hidden in the maze, I definitely think that this area is the best spot to stay when in town.

15 Things To Do in Nice - Emma Jane Explores
The view from Chateau du Colline

Morning – experience the view at the Chateau Colline

Wander up to the Chateau Colline to get a remarkable view of the coastline of Nice. On a clear day, you’ll be able to see the Promenade des Anglais from one side of the hill and the Port of Nice from the other. It’s a lovely spot for a picnic and you’ll definitely appreciate the chance to sit down after climbing all the stairs up to the top!

Afternoon – visit a museum

Pick from one of Nice’s many museums to visit. MAMAC (The Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art) and the Matisse museums are two favourites, but there are many others to choose from. MAMAC features works of Yves Klein and Niki de Saint Phalle amongst others. An added bonus of a visit to MAMAC is the rooftop view back over the old town of Nice is stunning.

The Musée Matisse is a little further from the main area of Nice, but houses one of the largest collections of his work in a house opposite Henri Matisse’s grave.

Alternatively, the Musée Marc Chagall is also located in Nice where you are able to take in some of his most acclaimed works. The famous painter is buried Saint-Paul-de-Vence, one of the area’s many mountainside villages.

If art isn’t your thing, then there is always the Musée Massena which focuses more on the history of the French Riviera and Nice. It is located in a beautiful house with some lovely gardens on the Promenade des Anglais.

The Best Towns on the French Riviera - Emma Jane Explores - Negresco Hotel, Nice
The Negresco Hotel, Nice

Sunset – take a walk on the Promenade des Anglais

There is nowhere else to be in Nice at sunset than on the Promenade des Anglais. Take a sunset walk, plonk yourself down at one of the many private beach clubs on the water or nab a free blue chair on the walkway itself to take in the most beautiful sight – a sunset on the water.

Dinner in Nice’s old town

My picks for dinner include steak-frites at the sumptuous Chez Acciardo, a seasonal menu at Bar des Oiseaux or a hearty rost dinner a La Rossitisserie. After dinner, take a stroll through the now illuminated laneways of the old town and enjoy getting lost in them before returning to your hotel for a good sleep!

Day two on the French Riviera

Visit Antibes & Juan les Pins

The delightful old town of Antibes sits on the Cote D’Azur between Cannes and Nice and is full of Roman ruins and historical goodness. I especially enjoyed wandering through the narrow streets and along the city walls on high, spying the giant yachts and sailing boats floating in the harbour.

Antibes is accessible from Nice via train or bus, but for the budget conscious I’d recommend the bus which takes a little longer but costs a mere 1.5 Euro.

Morning – visit the Picasso Museum

Once you arrive in Antibes, you’ll want to make your way to the stunning old town area where the ramparts denote where the town meets the sea. In the centre of the old town, you’ll notice Place Mariejol where there is a large church and the former Chateau Grimaldi which has become the home of the Musée Picasso in Antibes.

If you can look past the fact that he was a genius but horrible human being, you’ll enjoy the trip into the former Grimaldi Palace to explore the huge collection of his work. Even if you’re not a Picasso art fan, the Chateau where the museum is housed is still quite an interesting place to visit.

Midday – lunch in the old town and walk the ramparts

It’s now time to grab some lunch. Depending on your appetite, there are plenty of cafes and bakeries for a lighter, more casual lunch and there are also many more restaurants serving heavier fare. Le Quatre is a great crêperie which serves savoury and sweet options. Le Taille de Guepe is a great option for family-friendly French cuisine if you have a bigger appetite.

Once you’ve eaten, it’s time to take a walk around the walls of Antibes. From the port, just follow the 10th century ramparts around and explore the coastline. Feel very free to wander into some of the many laneways you encounter as this is where the true joy of the town is found.

The winding lanes in the old town of Antibes

Afternoon – chill out on the beach at Juan les Pins

Antibes and Juan Les Pins have some nice sandy beaches – unlike the hard underfoot pebbly beaches of Nice, so you’d be crazy not to make the most of a little beach time in the afternoon sun. Head across the peninsula to Plage Lutetia or Plage Richelieu (around 40 mins walk) and purchase a sun lounge for the remainder of the day to really make the most of the experience.

When you’re done, simply head back to the train station and make your way home to Nice for a shower before dinner and a promenade.

Day 3 on the French Riviera

Half day in both Cannes and Grasse

Morning – Cannes

Take the train from Nice to Cannes (around 40 mins) and head straight to the ocean, starting at the cinema complex where the Cannes Film Festival is held every year to see celebrity handprints immortalised in pavement. You’ll probably be admiring how the other half live with a stroll along the waterfront taking in the mega-yachts moored along the edge.

Cannes is so much more than the glitzy home to the most famous film festival in the world. There’s lots to like about this seaside town with a real mix of glamour and old town charm. This little pocket of the French Riviera has come a long way from its humble origins as a fishing village and opened the harbour to luxury yachts instead.

On a warm day, take a moment to stroll the beachfront and enjoy the white sandy strip of beach leading down to the Mediterranean before taking a walk up towards the church that sits atop the old town.

The beautiful buildings in Cannes old town

Walk up to the Place de la Castre where you will get the best views in town over the water, buildings and the Lérins islands. You should be able to spot Île Sainte-Marguerite and Île Saint-Honorat. This small cluster of islands are most well-known for being home to the Man in the Iron Mask.

Afternoon – Grasse

I managed to squeeze in a trip to the home of French Perfume – Grasse. Located in the mountains behind Cannes, this town has real old-world charm about it and is an especially interesting day trip for those who want to buy local perfume or tour the factories where these perfumes are made.

Grasse is easily accessible from Cannes via the bus. The ride costs around 2 euros and takes just under an hour. If you’re heading back to Nice after visiting Grasse, the train is the quicker option, however a word of warning: Grasse train station is nowhere near the town centre and it’s a long, arduous walk with overgrown and hidden pathways. It is very difficult to locate, so I’d definitely recommend taking the bus as it stops in the town centre and it’s cheaper.

The views of the Provence-Alpes region from Grasse

So what makes Grasse so special? The area around is full of natural flowers and aromas used in perfume or foods around France, hence it becoming home to France’s major parfumeries – Molinard, Fragonard and Galinard.

Of course, Grasse also has everything you’d expect from a French village, the usual cobbled streets and adorable window shutters above market stalls, but with the additional layer of floral arrangements and flowers all round, with beautiful parfumeries on every corner.

If you’re organised and book in advance, you could spend the afternoon making perfumes in a class run by a certified nez (perfume maker). If you’re a bit more spontaneous and these classes are booked out, then just enjoy wandering the streets of the town and be sure to check out the views from the Cathédrale Notre-Dame-du-Puy de Grasse before you make your way back to Nice.

French Riviera - Grasse
Molinard Parfumerie in Grasse

Day 4 on the French Riviera

Monaco (full day)

There’s not many places in the world where you can hop on a bus for 1.50 Euro, ride for 45 mins and be in another country, but on the French Riviera this is absolutely possible. The Principality of Monaco sits on the French Riviera, just a short scenic drive from Nice and it’s one of the most popular day trips to take along the Côte d’Azur. Monaco is one of the smallest states in the world, second only to the Vatican, but don’t let that fool you because it’s pretty densely populated for a tiny region. It also boasts the most millionaires per capita of anywhere in the world.

Morning – Casino Monte Carlo

Any trip to Monaco has to include the famous Casino Monte-Carlo, which is one of the area’s most beautiful buildings. For anyone who read my posts on Las Vegas, you’d be well aware that gambling is not my thing at all, but there’s no harm in taking a little look especially when the architecture is this spectacular. Be warned, though, it is only free to enter the entrance hall.

A look inside the casino floor where the gambling takes place will set you back 17 Euro and there’s no cameras allowed inside. I satisfied myself with a little whip around the entrance hall and a walk around the exterior of the casino and saved myself the entrance fee given I wasn’t about to gamble.

French Riviera - Monaco
The famous casino Monte-Carlo

Afternoon – Monaco-Ville (old town)

After the casino, a trip across the harbour and up the hill to see Monaco-Ville is in order. Here, the residences of the Grimaldi royal family remain, as well as a beautiful old town to explore. The views from Monaco-Ville are worth the trek alone. From up high, the full Monaco harbour on the French Riviera is visible, lined with rows and rows of yachts and sailing boats. It’s a lovely spot to stop and watch the world pass by, or to go crazy with the camera and get the perfect shot for Instagram.

When you’re in this area, don’t miss stopping by the Saint Nicholas Cathedral where Princess Grace was buried, and more recently her husband Prince Rainier III. When you’re finished in Monaco and take the bus back to Nice, I’d recommend timing the ride back with sunset, so as the bus drives along the French Riviera cliff face, the sky changes and bathes the Cote D’Azur in a pinky hue.

Monaco Day Trip - Monaco Ville - Emma Jane Explores
Old cars in the Old Town of Monaco

Day 5 on the French Riviera

Day trip to Èze Village (full day)

Awaiting on a mountaintop a mere 13km from Nice, is the breathtaking medieval village of Èze. With a history that dates back even further than medieval days – we’re talking around 2000BC – this spectacular day trip from Nice is high on the list for most tourists who know about the village.

As soon as I arrive here and begin the walk up the hillside over cobbled streets, I know I’m seeing something special. The buildings are covered in vines, starting to turn from green to auburn in the Autumn air, the laneways are twisting and turning and tiny boutique shops are nestled in amongst the walkways.

As I make my way up the mountain, losing myself in the corridors and alleys, I find myself at the hillside peak where the Jardin Exotique d’Èze is located. Don’t be put off by the entrance fee as this particular garden has incredible French Riviera views and wonderful panoramas all the way round the coast and behind the village towards the mountains.

Èze Village Day Trip - Emma Jane Explores
The Earth Goddesses in The Jardin Exotique d’Eze

What is also beautiful about this garden is the sculptures dotted around the peak featuring Jean-Philippe Richard’s Earth Goddesses, looking over the French Riviera to nurture and protect this beautiful part of the world. I found these sculptures and their depiction of the strength, gentility and power of women to be a really beautiful way to see the views before me.

Day 6 on the French Riviera

Menton & Villefranche-sur-mer (half day each)

Whilst Menton and Villefranche-sur-mer could easily command a full day each, we only have seven days in total to explore the French Riviera for one week, so I recommend cramming them into two half day visits. The good news, they’re both easily accessible from Nice on the train.

Morning – Menton

Menton absolutely floored me when I arrived. Having heard little about this town compared to other spots on the Côte d’Azur, I was unsure of what I’d find, but this village is an absolute jewel in the crown of this region. It simply can’t be missed off a one week in the French Riviera itinerary.

Starting at Menton railway station, you’ll want to make your way down to the water where you can walk along the coast on the Promenade du Soleil. Make your way all around the promenade heading towards the old town and you’ll see the sight of the pastel coloured buildings of the town centre shining out over the beach.

Menton Day Trip - Emma Jane Explores - The Ultimate Day In Menton, French Riviera
Menton Old Town from the Sea

From here, make your way inland to explore the hilly district of the old town. Make sure to stop at the Cemetery of the Old Château for stunning views down over the water and then keep exploring the many streets until you reach the town’s cathedral, the Basilica of Saint-Michel.

Once you’ve had your fill of wandering the old town area, make your way back down the hill to the streets around the beach. Here, you’ll find vendors selling and offering samples of Menton’s most famous export – citrus – from Limoncello to gelato. Grab some samples and then find a spot by the water to enjoy some moules-frites (mussels and fries) before catching the train back towards Nice.

Menton Day Trip - Emma Jane Explores - The Ultimate Day In Menton, French Riviera
The Cemetery of the Vieux Chateau in Menton

Afternoon – Villefranche-sur-mer

One stop from Nice exists one of the most stunning old towns in the entire world. Villefranche-sur-mer is a popular cruise ship hub thanks to its deep harbour, but don’t let that put you off. Alighting from the station, the town of Villefranche-sur-mer is immediately visible and its many beaches might tempt you for an afternoon of sun and sand.

Walk up to the Citadelle Saint-Elme which will take you on a journey through the pretty old town centre and provide you with amazing views back over the harbour and beaches.

Villefranche-sur-Mer from the Citadel

Day seven on the French Riviera

Saint-Paul de Vence (full day)

Saint-Paul de Vence is another medieval walled village (like Èze) and yet it has quite a different feel to it. By public transport, it is easy to take the train from Nice to Cagnes-sur-mer and then catch the bus up into the mountains to visit Saint-Paul de Vence. The best part of the bus ride is when the town comes into view, perched atop the mountains like a fairy tale village.

Morning – walk the village ramparts

When you first arrive in Saint Paul-de-Vence, the best thing to do to get your bearings is to take a walk around the village walls (ramparts). This will give you a sensational birds eye view of the Provence-Alpes region that stretches from the mountains to the see. Enjoy the stroll and stop along the way at notable sites, such as the village cemetery where artist Marc Chagall is buried.

How To Get To Saint-Paul de Vence from Nice - Emma Jane Explores
The Cemetery of Saint-Paul de Vence

Afternoon – explore the galleries

Saint-Paul de Vence is renowned for being an artist hangout. Picasso, Chagall and Matisse were all at some point regulars of the town. Their influence has remained and the village is full of art galleries and stores that reflect the artisinal heart of the town.

Spend the afternoon strolling through the galleries and shops admiring the art. Stop in at the Maison de Parfums Godet where Henri Matisse had a perfume, ‘Folie Bleue’, made for his muse in 1925 (which is still sold today).

How To Get To Saint-Paul de Vence from Nice - Emma Jane Explores
Maison de Parfums Godet, one of the town’s perfume stores

Summing up one week in the French Riviera

Honestly, this one week in the French Riviera itinerary is BUSY. This will enable you to maximise your sightseeing of the region, but don’t be afraid to slow down and skip a few day trips to just enjoy your time here. Or consider adding on an extra week – more time in the French Riviera could never be a bad thing!

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